tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47196105690159798602024-03-04T22:09:19.646-08:00Academy of LagadoA blog about miscellaneous projects in home machining, carpentry, electronics, computing, and anything else that might interest me.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-81306163856391268612012-08-31T07:00:00.002-07:002012-08-31T07:00:51.650-07:00I've Moved!New web site: <br />
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<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a><br />
<br />Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-48615967629719406092012-08-26T17:03:00.002-07:002013-01-08T11:51:15.570-08:00Repairing a drill press vise<br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
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See the Vise article directly here: <br />
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<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/machining---lathes-mills-etc/vise-repair">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/machining---lathes-mills-etc/vise-repair</a><br />
<br />kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-89953465854876603462012-08-02T19:36:00.002-07:002013-01-08T11:55:48.299-08:00Guitar Stomp Switch (Overdrive Effect Pedal)<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
<br />
See the Stomp Switch article here:<br />
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<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/miscellaneous-projects/guitar-stomp-switch">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/miscellaneous-projects/guitar-stomp-switch</a>kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-70051028060628492602012-08-02T17:37:00.000-07:002012-08-31T11:28:39.457-07:00Mini Lathe Base Mounting - Plans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana,sans-serif; text-align: center;">
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
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Replacement Base (Chip Tray) for a Mini-Lathe</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_tIVVuxC6au5NYofG6GWMuGPaJGbglHYFRFWr9BDGPaIVjRTHbjI3A2H4almy_kD0Duz-o44nrV8XNPu4L2jmCbJ3WM61Icr2mD05eq5aicq-IZCyleCQAb6sk4rtYJyx7ju3BaPKGirU/s1600/IMG_20120720_200953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_tIVVuxC6au5NYofG6GWMuGPaJGbglHYFRFWr9BDGPaIVjRTHbjI3A2H4almy_kD0Duz-o44nrV8XNPu4L2jmCbJ3WM61Icr2mD05eq5aicq-IZCyleCQAb6sk4rtYJyx7ju3BaPKGirU/s200/IMG_20120720_200953.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
My new/used mini-lathe was missing a chip tray, so I built one that also serves as a sturdy base.<br />
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When I purchased my mini-lathe (used for $260 in early 2012), a few things needed to be corrected:</div>
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<li>no chip tray</li>
<li>3-jaw chuck missing inside jaws</li>
<li>speed control knob missing</li>
<li>tailstock hand-wheel broken</li>
<li>change gears missing</li>
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It did include a dead center and drill chuck for the tailstock (and the rear splash guard - removed in the photo above).<br />
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In short, there were some easily corrected minor deficiencies, but the biggest immediate concern was the lack of a chip tray, as this made for an unstable lathe. I thought about purchasing a chip tray (or some of the other alternatives mentioned on other sites), but in the end I decided to just build one to my requirements.<br />
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The result is shown in the picture below. In brief, it is a plywood base "trimmed" with pine on all four sides. A removable plywood backsplash is mounted to the rear. It's a bit difficult to see in the picture, but there is a shallow groove running along the front of the base; this serves to catch any cutting fluids, and also serves to keep tools or small parts from roiling off the front. The base is further stabilized by two heavy wood strips running along the bottom (front to back) - these are also slightly tapered so that the base tilts down toward the front, so that any fluids will run to the front.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Harbor Freight Model 33684 Mini Lathe mounted on base</td></tr>
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The whole thing was finished off with several coats of gray latex enamel, and a final topcoat of clear urethane.<br />
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I'm quite pleased with the result, which is light but sturdy. The wood strips along the bottom make it easy to get a grip if I want to move it. The lathe is bolted to the base from below; the lathe actually sits on pieces of 1/4" neoprene gasket, which acts as a vibration damper.</div>
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My long term thinking was that the base as shown would form two sides of a box, and that I could build the rest of the box later as a way to completely enclose the lathe for storage, if need be. I've put off the that part for the time being, but as can be seen from the photo, I made sure when fastening the lathe to the base that everything fit within the area of the base.</div>
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As noted previously, the backsplash is removable to simplify access to the rear of the lathe, as well as removal of the compound rest.</div>
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Not part of the build plans, but seen at the top center of the picture above, is a LED lamp I added later. It's made from a goose-neck LED lamp I picked up on sale at a local department store. I remove the flat base it came with, and replaced it with a wood base slotted to slide along the backsplash. With the combination of the sliding and the gooseneck, I can direct the lamp wherever I need it. (Since modifying the lamp, I have seen LED "clamp lights" which I think would also work nicely).</div>
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If you would like to build this yourself, drawings and build instruction can be found here:</div>
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In PDF format: </div>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWRXJyTUlWMTNuT2s">https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWRXJyTUlWMTNuT2s</a></div>
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The original LibreOffice Draw file:</div>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWRzN3RzJTV2h1RUU">https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWRzN3RzJTV2h1RUU</a></div>
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<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" style="border-width: 0;" /></a><br />
Replacement Base (Chip Tray) for a Mini-Lathe by <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/" rel="cc:attributionURL">kaje</a> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-17477907328014734542012-07-25T19:02:00.000-07:002012-08-31T11:29:13.150-07:00Gargoyle Mailbox<div style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtVqxb3TTBBfiSuQlJBCfrDtHY6OVAV9yxEz43dHj7-mwbYUHWvlIQj9T2Fdg3BjtI_GRdwe6p3VmXtsRQKOf63y3giyL77xLnSJr4ZyO_NHi5Hyt3FKVXT7yWujB-nxg1ZJpRjOlvsq/s1600/P1020622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtVqxb3TTBBfiSuQlJBCfrDtHY6OVAV9yxEz43dHj7-mwbYUHWvlIQj9T2Fdg3BjtI_GRdwe6p3VmXtsRQKOf63y3giyL77xLnSJr4ZyO_NHi5Hyt3FKVXT7yWujB-nxg1ZJpRjOlvsq/s200/P1020622.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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A mailbox and post assembled from garden statuary.<br />
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This was a simple project, mostly assembled from purchased components:<br />
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<li>Garden statuary: Concrete post</li>
<li>Garden statuary: Gargoyle</li>
<li>Metal mailbox</li>
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The concrete post has a hollow center, so a steel post was driven through the center hole into the ground to stabilize it. </div>
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Three holes were drilled into the top of the gargoyle using carbide bits, and three stainless steel rods (previously threaded on one end) were inserted into the drilled holes and epoxied in place. A wooden platform was placed on the top of the threaded ends and locked in place with nuts and washers. The mailbox was screwed to the wooden platform.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpras8Q7rSDLfArlysMhbssoGzOf65qViDlGcFW85M1HwI5Q-PEigA-kDhnrFcJwrWqezUKY0kmWljdyfD2HOgm0sX3iWLU5adD6sN87omEW7TinU0RinlB375_OdkIVQ2qdCDz0P1TUNd/s1600/mailbox-2009-11-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpras8Q7rSDLfArlysMhbssoGzOf65qViDlGcFW85M1HwI5Q-PEigA-kDhnrFcJwrWqezUKY0kmWljdyfD2HOgm0sX3iWLU5adD6sN87omEW7TinU0RinlB375_OdkIVQ2qdCDz0P1TUNd/s640/mailbox-2009-11-04.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mailbox just after installation </td></tr>
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Here are a some more pictures: </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtVqxb3TTBBfiSuQlJBCfrDtHY6OVAV9yxEz43dHj7-mwbYUHWvlIQj9T2Fdg3BjtI_GRdwe6p3VmXtsRQKOf63y3giyL77xLnSJr4ZyO_NHi5Hyt3FKVXT7yWujB-nxg1ZJpRjOlvsq/s1600/P1020622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpTtVqxb3TTBBfiSuQlJBCfrDtHY6OVAV9yxEz43dHj7-mwbYUHWvlIQj9T2Fdg3BjtI_GRdwe6p3VmXtsRQKOf63y3giyL77xLnSJr4ZyO_NHi5Hyt3FKVXT7yWujB-nxg1ZJpRjOlvsq/s640/P1020622.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winter - closeup</td></tr>
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<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" style="border-width: 0;" /></a><br />
Gargoyle Mailbox by <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/" rel="cc:attributionURL">kaje</a> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.</div>
kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-9510818318280042572012-07-24T18:37:00.003-07:002012-08-31T11:29:40.107-07:00Radius/Ball Turning Tool - Building the tool<h2 style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
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Radius/Ball Turning Tool - Building the tool</h2>
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In this post I will show how to build a lathe tool for turning spheres (balls) and other curved surfaces, and provide links to measured drawings.</div>
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For background on this tool see my <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/2012/07/radiusball-turning-tool-no-mill-required.html">previous post</a>. For convenience, here is a picture of the tool:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s1600/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s400/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Radius Turning Tool</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Before starting this project, I made a complete set of design drawings. As the project progressed, I made minor changes and additions - these have been incorporated into the final set of drawings. Links to all drawings are provided at the end of this post.<br />
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The design goals for this project were as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li>Use a limited number of tools - primarily a lathe, drill press, and hand tools</li>
<li>Use readily available materials</li>
<li>Enable finished tool to mount to lathe without any lathe modifications other than removal of the compound slide</li>
<li>Enable finished tool to be adjustable for convex or concave curves of varying size </li>
</ul>
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Not surprisingly, I also thought of a number of possible improvements that might be made to the original design. I will note these as shown below:<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement: These will be shown in brackets and red italics.]</span></span></i><br />
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<h4>
Getting Started - the Main Plates</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QueXpbWhkeE/UAbgTTjPSzI/AAAAAAAACZg/lfzX-phrQnM/s1600/IMG_20120530_184349.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QueXpbWhkeE/UAbgTTjPSzI/AAAAAAAACZg/lfzX-phrQnM/s200/IMG_20120530_184349.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1/4 X 4 X 12 steel plate</td></tr>
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The foundation for the tool is steel plate. I began with a piece of 4 inch X 12 inch steel plate (1/4 inch thick) purchased from the local big box store (in this case, <i>Menards</i>, but most any good hardware store should have this). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQGE85XipbrS3DtkcbarrtmPZ-MfQjKYc6LT8NAuQFZuAXtkCu9jjUBzulFViTUHGjAKZmnKUY7L_cM7OIaXRZsxmuCul25Y-NP6t2YURTfXxTzBJpaObmNau1c3bAvkzMwYXRss_4Op7/s1600/IMG_20120529_150954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQGE85XipbrS3DtkcbarrtmPZ-MfQjKYc6LT8NAuQFZuAXtkCu9jjUBzulFViTUHGjAKZmnKUY7L_cM7OIaXRZsxmuCul25Y-NP6t2YURTfXxTzBJpaObmNau1c3bAvkzMwYXRss_4Op7/s320/IMG_20120529_150954.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoothing (filing) the plate end.</td></tr>
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The steel plate is pretty rough to begin with, so the first thing I did was file one end smooth and flat. This is primarily for cosmetic reasons, as this is not critical to the operation of the tool.<br />
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For appearance sake, I did my best to file the end as smooth, square, and flat as possible (with slightly chamfered edges).<br />
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With a little care, a clean square end can be achieved by simple filing. However, as noted earlier (if you make this yourself) don't worry if it's not perfect as it will have no impact at all using the completed tool.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FCyH2gFx1F88yR2lRqFvYebj9PL5Nud61dhnALayN3uRUZcla2VRpNCJzLy6r91yDALq8veGKUCb1e9y0pxRFKVnbGuGY_AgZ7Bb3BivlezenJNxs7xVFo8MToQ4pEf3kEdVRltfJpK7/s1600/IMG_20120529_151834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6FCyH2gFx1F88yR2lRqFvYebj9PL5Nud61dhnALayN3uRUZcla2VRpNCJzLy6r91yDALq8veGKUCb1e9y0pxRFKVnbGuGY_AgZ7Bb3BivlezenJNxs7xVFo8MToQ4pEf3kEdVRltfJpK7/s320/IMG_20120529_151834.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting the plate.</td></tr>
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Next, measure and cut two pieces 3 inches long. I cleaned up the cut edges as noted earlier. The other two edges were left as they were on the original piece of steel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK4d6s_D1WVdLzeLX-JUnezFYUhN_FXRxw0x51uFRbyOL8F1m2knUbY8l0_gQdtmAQVny0AQGr_sVI2IgQuTxBxAwhymcj-gwSAw75YGqX6kXrHvlZxxp4UfDj7gQf4DhjyLV9FtmtLcY_/s1600/IMG_20120529_191326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK4d6s_D1WVdLzeLX-JUnezFYUhN_FXRxw0x51uFRbyOL8F1m2knUbY8l0_gQdtmAQVny0AQGr_sVI2IgQuTxBxAwhymcj-gwSAw75YGqX6kXrHvlZxxp4UfDj7gQf4DhjyLV9FtmtLcY_/s320/IMG_20120529_191326.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Facing" the plate</td></tr>
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The plate surfaces were then "smoothed" by mounting the plate in a four jaw chuck on the lathe, and then facing the surface. I used an indexable carbide tool for this, although I am sure that an HHS tool would work as well (possibly better, as this is an interrupted cut, which can cause chipping with carbide tools).<br />
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The top plate was faced on both sides; the bottom plate was faced on the top surface only.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #1: I'm not entirely sure that this facing operation is even necessary; I did it on the assumption that smooth mating surfaces would improve the rotation of the top plate, and a smooth top surface would ease adjustment of the tool radius. I now think facing of the top surface is probably not necessary. Also, as an alternative to facing on the lathe it might be possible to simply grind one surface of each plate on a lapping plate.]</span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sapa3s11iI4/UAbgIJFCQXI/AAAAAAAACZg/CC3_UZdLjdI/s1600/IMG_20120530_002608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Sapa3s11iI4/UAbgIJFCQXI/AAAAAAAACZg/CC3_UZdLjdI/s320/IMG_20120530_002608.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cutting hole for rotation collar.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Once the plate surfaces are ready, a hole is cut in the bottom plate for the rotation coupling. The bottom plate is mounted in a four jaw chuck, and the hole is cut by first drilling, and then with a boring tool. Note that this is a stepped cut, and that the "bottom" of the plate is the unfinished side. </span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDLre9wnRueOA8QzQ9DWJ5p8igaT4hKtkvalg5-4Tee__Tg7bmb1gfqvcnOZpvKky3QZGvw9LToZBZxvMtr0yaPc9FiXPtVLqZCWkq8TYbfYsL1qLZuyx6KCW1rdwM0Yzt7yhqndvh7Hu/s1600/IMG_20120530_154420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrDLre9wnRueOA8QzQ9DWJ5p8igaT4hKtkvalg5-4Tee__Tg7bmb1gfqvcnOZpvKky3QZGvw9LToZBZxvMtr0yaPc9FiXPtVLqZCWkq8TYbfYsL1qLZuyx6KCW1rdwM0Yzt7yhqndvh7Hu/s320/IMG_20120530_154420.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished hole in bottom plate.</td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"></span></span></i><br />
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The finished hole in the bottom plate is shown above. You will, of course, want to finish the hole as close to the drawing dimensions as possible. Slight deviations are acceptable, however, as the rotation coupling is finished "to fit."<br />
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<h4>
Rotation Coupling</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXdg7JpWc-PQlyccsKCIXv0hDRjmXT_auQ3dwV4QpmjHjqyxtuw3pb64jkUieyx8w6ZhLi2u1tBWpUu1mLPyOCN-hSs4CZaDwxrfSdHjcE2qEU0VbpORKLCpAzIfJPXaVeIQ2lUx8ggZi/s1600/IMG_20120530_212724.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyXdg7JpWc-PQlyccsKCIXv0hDRjmXT_auQ3dwV4QpmjHjqyxtuw3pb64jkUieyx8w6ZhLi2u1tBWpUu1mLPyOCN-hSs4CZaDwxrfSdHjcE2qEU0VbpORKLCpAzIfJPXaVeIQ2lUx8ggZi/s200/IMG_20120530_212724.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blank for rotation collar.</td></tr>
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From the remaining piece of the original steel plate, as additional piece is cut as shown, and the corners are cut off to create a rough octagonal piece.<br />
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This octagonal piece is then faced on both surfaces in the same way as the top and bottom plates. After facing is completed the piece is left mounted on the lathe and a center hole is drilled.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopgOUzjVd2PH994ElzD5669MhR8Q7_SCUglYMsxMpBtQFvA7maPSsDC8oTqHT0CXQ1OmwdIynzfkDUUgNu1DxpzrfE-bBNevj283cD0VE5Ak95Xs9Xa9jl80ZNRk-GBY59CXs0EKJCL1e/s1600/IMG_20120530_233048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjopgOUzjVd2PH994ElzD5669MhR8Q7_SCUglYMsxMpBtQFvA7maPSsDC8oTqHT0CXQ1OmwdIynzfkDUUgNu1DxpzrfE-bBNevj283cD0VE5Ak95Xs9Xa9jl80ZNRk-GBY59CXs0EKJCL1e/s320/IMG_20120530_233048.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Octagonal blank and mandrel.</td></tr>
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A mandrel is made using a 1/4" bolt, a brass washer, and a drilled and tapped brass rod.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiib2y4S9N6dEg0r9829M2nOT3a4ZcJ519woT_MgW_NGgfMlCrrKQakTtoNCzJ1x4OzSCFrfv3uexiUocv1XHu6uNBcl_xHLKf_2bYGHqxsE_3fgmXbj6uz0nYQWSxzqltS5UH3Z281LMyE/s1600/IMG_20120530_233117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiib2y4S9N6dEg0r9829M2nOT3a4ZcJ519woT_MgW_NGgfMlCrrKQakTtoNCzJ1x4OzSCFrfv3uexiUocv1XHu6uNBcl_xHLKf_2bYGHqxsE_3fgmXbj6uz0nYQWSxzqltS5UH3Z281LMyE/s320/IMG_20120530_233117.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blank mounted on mandrel.</td></tr>
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The rough piece mounted on the mandrel; the brass washer was used to prevent the bolt from marring the face.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYANoEUYxoj9BYErdzsfp-Q2RVpP06bBZnJ_GfMmkZxIWbJANS6DILiU-A4mhnnH5NV8C_N5itBKWBYceco9AKLsOQX8UK9ES-s3x2ESW1k4LR2cwKeWgosOEjecG2C0z_1C15XQMFGV2O/s1600/IMG_20120530_234227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYANoEUYxoj9BYErdzsfp-Q2RVpP06bBZnJ_GfMmkZxIWbJANS6DILiU-A4mhnnH5NV8C_N5itBKWBYceco9AKLsOQX8UK9ES-s3x2ESW1k4LR2cwKeWgosOEjecG2C0z_1C15XQMFGV2O/s320/IMG_20120530_234227.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turning the rotation coupling</td></tr>
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Using the mandrel, the rough piece is mounted in the lathe and turned to appropriate dimensions.<br />
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As the rotation coupling turned, it is tested frequently against the finished bottom plate to ensure a firm but smooth fit. <b>A good fit is critical</b> in order to eliminate vibration and wobbling when using the finished tool, so take as much time as necessary to get this right.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlyu2vs95QTz9Fz1BASsBcInRTb3osOM3aEgjADRo9Rxbt_vKmowJc8-tbhQONUvY_IN26cu9OLglCH0h_B1p7-DGs3z_7e4ZMUQd3esSWnhSdOKGVhE5PT0vIvScuX9EGt61FQvGYJJoZ/s1600/IMG_20120531_001040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlyu2vs95QTz9Fz1BASsBcInRTb3osOM3aEgjADRo9Rxbt_vKmowJc8-tbhQONUvY_IN26cu9OLglCH0h_B1p7-DGs3z_7e4ZMUQd3esSWnhSdOKGVhE5PT0vIvScuX9EGt61FQvGYJJoZ/s320/IMG_20120531_001040.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Test fitting the rotation coupling</td></tr>
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The completed rotation coupling and matching bottom plate are shown to the left. The coupling should rotation firmly and smoothly (with a bit of lubrication - I use lithium grease).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dKdk-jrLFlZJllZZpVUFpt0nMjy0PB7BwN3E8Zj8Tf5H-6wZyOMHEHiQj2zaZ93Yfb7r732C251o08PIHWzOx7IPGMuBhPvVuWjMywN6Lyj6sxcEOuepLw307kJFmlzDVv_XTIv9Pwd0/s1600/IMG_20120604_160526.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7dKdk-jrLFlZJllZZpVUFpt0nMjy0PB7BwN3E8Zj8Tf5H-6wZyOMHEHiQj2zaZ93Yfb7r732C251o08PIHWzOx7IPGMuBhPvVuWjMywN6Lyj6sxcEOuepLw307kJFmlzDVv_XTIv9Pwd0/s320/IMG_20120604_160526.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom plate and rotation coupling</td></tr>
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The final step in completing the rotation coupling is drilling the holes to screw it to the top plate. The photo above shows the completed coupling as well as the completed cam locks. However, I recommend drilling the coupling holes <b><i>before</i></b> adding the cam locks.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZdkV7Ruw5P86tJKQqeIjmDjD5_ItfNDhGhtK2AZnnYql-QFOkydrEE4Y8RPhsMysZR2HjhhvP5O8_pioUvCkKU8-vo54Q6tG6TQb5xb1bc5zuqIL3RFjQyzF37DZt1ZEQzktN1qaTr_S/s1600/IMG_20120606_143255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZdkV7Ruw5P86tJKQqeIjmDjD5_ItfNDhGhtK2AZnnYql-QFOkydrEE4Y8RPhsMysZR2HjhhvP5O8_pioUvCkKU8-vo54Q6tG6TQb5xb1bc5zuqIL3RFjQyzF37DZt1ZEQzktN1qaTr_S/s320/IMG_20120606_143255.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom plate with cam locks and rotation coupling.</td></tr>
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The coupling holes are drilled by marking out the locations on the coupling. The coupling, top, and bottom plates are then clamped together in a "sandwich" and four pilot holes are drilled through both the coupling and the top plate. Use a center punch to punch a couple of witness marks in both the coupling and the top plate to show the original alignment, so the parts can be re-aligned later.<br />
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After drilling the pilot holes, disassemble the "sandwich" and finish drilling the holes to the required sizes. Countersink the holes in the coupling, and tap the holes in the top plate.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #2: In retrospect, I think it may have been better to screw the rotation coupling to the top plate from the top, using socket-head screws. Allowance would have to be made for clearance of the top radius-adjusting screw of course, but I think there would still be room for four or six smaller screws on the top. This would simplify adjusting the "tightness" of the coupling. Also, this would probably be easier to do than getting the countersinking right.]</span></span></i><br />
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<h4>
Cam Locks</h4>
<h4>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6z9h4LfPzQGRFMne92LY6fwn4F3UAmOVdkB_chmoM50QiVmkTyahdKx35vNfX0tEcgZNQcr1qMsHmGqKulpNoI2SQP6zRyAq0Pmu0KpScaV9b63yddzBn7wAo6wYShWlkpESzGuRDCqKP/s1600/IMG_20120604_183508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6z9h4LfPzQGRFMne92LY6fwn4F3UAmOVdkB_chmoM50QiVmkTyahdKx35vNfX0tEcgZNQcr1qMsHmGqKulpNoI2SQP6zRyAq0Pmu0KpScaV9b63yddzBn7wAo6wYShWlkpESzGuRDCqKP/s320/IMG_20120604_183508.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bolts (before threading/cutting) and one brass collar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The cam locks are quite simple. They are made from 1/4" bolts hack-sawed to length, and drilled brass rod. The bolts should have a 0.45" shank (un-threaded portion); I used bolts with a longer shank and added additional threads with a die, then cut the bolts to length.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlteKWlCot51H0yl-HlqqTQNVxd9dAzGo8LRiNxEp3bTkswwldK_lR0207aCSnoScUvetUOMxmWGMRHJLpzsf9V-3rvUucEBuwkdBLb5hCGVvdfxgpYMLzg6VZat1WqthM13qvfSXaBLe/s1600/IMG_20120720_212055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAlteKWlCot51H0yl-HlqqTQNVxd9dAzGo8LRiNxEp3bTkswwldK_lR0207aCSnoScUvetUOMxmWGMRHJLpzsf9V-3rvUucEBuwkdBLb5hCGVvdfxgpYMLzg6VZat1WqthM13qvfSXaBLe/s320/IMG_20120720_212055.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cam lock and hex bolt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Two of the brass rod pieces are drilled on center, the other two are drilled off center to enable the brass collar to press against the compound slide as it rotates.<br />
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I was originally a bit concerned that the cam locks might not hold firmly enough, but I found in practice that they work quite well. The short levers are a little bit difficult to press in place - I generally push them down with the flat of a wrench handle.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1hoWMBbcLyyWdZ6fJKAFTOfX3GK9S66yuOEZHE11JoJGRUlBrHB57TXztFoBs4Si3qcJNfqKenTqrus8Y2KnlZfd6R6xGJHIZDvUQ1fl8x-vQF5I23EE7NCRYTJr0u0PECs0v7Hm1P5V/s1600/IMG_20120606_095342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1hoWMBbcLyyWdZ6fJKAFTOfX3GK9S66yuOEZHE11JoJGRUlBrHB57TXztFoBs4Si3qcJNfqKenTqrus8Y2KnlZfd6R6xGJHIZDvUQ1fl8x-vQF5I23EE7NCRYTJr0u0PECs0v7Hm1P5V/s320/IMG_20120606_095342.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bottom plate with cam locks</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Once locked in place the tool stays in position, with no tendency to wobble or slide.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
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</h4>
<h4>
Tool Post, Adjustment Screw, and Brackets</h4>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcn0XA2eKvgIRJbq6K_AowjqU5Ht9UDxzRss0McTWXv5UtgP_o7mENOpBKZgkPfAL3IuG0av3ZKjbQ7URLNYjDEIa1b5kgCl_koQ1nl2DO4wOs43Kii2ubEPAQmrquCN-mpAtx430KNgoU/s1600/IMG_20120612_183941.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcn0XA2eKvgIRJbq6K_AowjqU5Ht9UDxzRss0McTWXv5UtgP_o7mENOpBKZgkPfAL3IuG0av3ZKjbQ7URLNYjDEIa1b5kgCl_koQ1nl2DO4wOs43Kii2ubEPAQmrquCN-mpAtx430KNgoU/s320/IMG_20120612_183941.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marking post for cutting later.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The tool post is fairly straightforward, but there are a few tips which may make it easier:<br />
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As you can see in the photo to the left, I marked the post cap <i>before</i> cutting it off. I then drilled the two holes for tightening the cap (on a drill press) and then removed the cap with a cutoff tool. This ensures that the holes are perfectly aligned. When drilling the holes to depth, be sure to allow for the width of the cutoff tool. Also, the cap holes will have to be drilled a second time to allow clearance for the screws.<br />
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Once the cap is cut off, the tool can be removed from the lathe and placed on the assembled tool base (which has been mounted on the lathe) to determine the appropriate length needed to get the cutting tool at the proper height. My tool post turned out to be a few thousands too short, but I was able to remedy this easily by shimming the cutting tool.<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #3: It might be worthwhile to <b>intentionally</b> cut the tool post a bit short at the top, and then shim as necessary depending on the cutting tool being used. Ideally, the tool holder height would be adjustable in some way, but I have not yet come up with a simple way to do this (other than shims).]</span></span></i><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcz0Xq9a1ZxPs5UCb-rhQTvg3B_aE2ILf4jGKi8eBgtNZ2K6UD6nuZKDRal2ZD2ejTyQVgq_TT1G52_v9IRfbP4IetRQ2JpFer561QU1tXVW-grXhVii5Fh5iRBCR-xp1CqHQYmlKd7Pns/s1600/IMG_20120719_202324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcz0Xq9a1ZxPs5UCb-rhQTvg3B_aE2ILf4jGKi8eBgtNZ2K6UD6nuZKDRal2ZD2ejTyQVgq_TT1G52_v9IRfbP4IetRQ2JpFer561QU1tXVW-grXhVii5Fh5iRBCR-xp1CqHQYmlKd7Pns/s400/IMG_20120719_202324.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side View</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">Once the tool post is cut to the proper height, it must be drilled and tapped for the brass adjustment screw. My initial design idea was to do this so that the tool post would sit firmly on the base, but still be able to slide back and forth to adjust the cut radius. However, I found that when I did it this way, the tool post wobbled sideways when cutting (even though it seemed firm when just sitting on the base). My solution to this was to make a new tool post, but this time to place the adjustment screw just a bit high. This way, after adjusting the cut radius with the brass adjustment screw, I could tighten down the brackets holding the adjustment screw and hold the tool post down to the base with considerable force; testing showed that this eliminated the wobble.</span><span style="color: black; font-size: small;"> The downside to this is that the entire tool assembly has to be removed from the lathe in order to loosen the bracket screws, and then removed again after adjustment to re-tighten them. </span><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7NxWHS6h6FILOy9SInbVT4kyV2yfl1zdude5mCSvHrnYAzIKp94OiOzGSRKfKfqPMAiHjXjqFklhhHOH0UFjrTO-OjLVQoPbmQY-_FtzRmem7NnoAfddk7FvcVS_K5fm3WADRyGbpeo23/s1600/IMG_20120613_143919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7NxWHS6h6FILOy9SInbVT4kyV2yfl1zdude5mCSvHrnYAzIKp94OiOzGSRKfKfqPMAiHjXjqFklhhHOH0UFjrTO-OjLVQoPbmQY-_FtzRmem7NnoAfddk7FvcVS_K5fm3WADRyGbpeo23/s320/IMG_20120613_143919.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drilling brackets on drill press</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The holes for the mounting brackets for the adjustment screw were drilled as shown to the left. Hole locations were marked on the brackets, and the brackets and screw were clamped together and drilled on the drill press. Each hole was drilled and tapped one at a time, so that a screw could be inserted to assist in the clamping. This is a rather laborious process involving a lot of assembly and dis-assembly, but I think it is worthwhile to ensure good alignment.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35wXuD2oqQjoiJ8jZvlYXM8etuwUrGO54XN0_uUFUMuBTrS2kO6BAtYA4j030ruIgBZldQRQy9foL0dxeWV_3o8GmKCEfbyunKEeFmGPqzIBbLAihdBbUPid_2YCp92C5STggjaSXzdjc/s1600/IMG_20120719_202335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35wXuD2oqQjoiJ8jZvlYXM8etuwUrGO54XN0_uUFUMuBTrS2kO6BAtYA4j030ruIgBZldQRQy9foL0dxeWV_3o8GmKCEfbyunKEeFmGPqzIBbLAihdBbUPid_2YCp92C5STggjaSXzdjc/s320/IMG_20120719_202335.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tool post - side view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">The hole for the adjustment screw was drilled on a drill press. In retrospect it may have been better to drill it on the lathe, with the tool post mounted sideways in a four jaw chuck, to ensure that the hole is drilled absolutely square to the post. A drill press will do the job, however, with a bit of care and a reasonably good drill press vise.</span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-size: small;">If you look closely at the side view photo, you will see that the right hand mounting bracket does not sit flush with the top plate - this is intentional due to the "slightly high" location of the adjustment screw.</span><br />
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #4: Instead of mounting the screw holding brackets with screws from below, use socket head screws mounted from above. This would enable the brackets to be loosened/tightened without removing the tool from the lathe. This would mean that amount of clearance needed for the bracket (as it swings under the lathe chuck) would increase, but this could be offset by other improvements with respect to the rotation coupling to be mentioned later.]</span></span></i><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6XpedwS-hiKyjtGyFL-NOZR6CLlxjCGVKKvZZRogapVGFH4S1La0tCKusW9UhMZeusSw0rVqe-HHdGaXhneoWKPiB9Cc7o5auFpikz23ah8JJNPKpN-vuepQ7yI_6zXZsT7F0sx4C6WP/s1600/IMG_20120719_202835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6XpedwS-hiKyjtGyFL-NOZR6CLlxjCGVKKvZZRogapVGFH4S1La0tCKusW9UhMZeusSw0rVqe-HHdGaXhneoWKPiB9Cc7o5auFpikz23ah8JJNPKpN-vuepQ7yI_6zXZsT7F0sx4C6WP/s320/IMG_20120719_202835.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adjusting screw, tool post, and mounting brackets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;">The adjustment screw is made from 3/8"-16 coarse threaded brass rod, with the ends appropriately turned to fit the mounting brackets. I ran an appropriately sized die over the threads to clean them up. I put hex nuts on the threaded rod to prevent marring the threads, before mounting the rod in a three jaw chuck on the lathe to turn the ends. A slot was cut in one end to allow for adjustment with a screwdriver. The slot was cut using a Dremel cut-off wheel. The mounting brackets were cut from a brass 0.25" x 1" bar, with the cut ends cleaned up with a file.</span><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"> </span></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #5:Instead of cutting a screwdriver slot in the screw, drill and tap the end for a (cemented in place) socket head screw. This would enable the adjustment screw to be turned more easily using a hex wrench.]</span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;">Turning handle </span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></h4>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREK5J9T08tcmGDm27xc85eDHL2-tALZ5LRgcz-xlTP09_2eNAp7SeaTPFKxBDuquU5-vPJwJ_bRwPQU46ygwaqLwSMW7iZpKnETf5laPqn31kJpSXs2TuGbxK0vBKIg5MGpcgGEwRiWcG/s1600/IMG_20120719_202438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgREK5J9T08tcmGDm27xc85eDHL2-tALZ5LRgcz-xlTP09_2eNAp7SeaTPFKxBDuquU5-vPJwJ_bRwPQU46ygwaqLwSMW7iZpKnETf5laPqn31kJpSXs2TuGbxK0vBKIg5MGpcgGEwRiWcG/s400/IMG_20120719_202438.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view - Turning Handle with Ball End</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"> A handle for turning the top plate is mounted in one corner at at 45 degree angle. The bracket for the handle is also cut from a brass bar; it is mounted to the top plate with socket head screws.</span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38UlpNLQYbZs6neNI_CIkpPA4Plu56AgBVXfICw35ImiazhHVPxhkz18Zi1a2nCygLKtAMZtw-iuFFLlMSBbEXSLqCGdye-bxZpb4I62xNl_L7V0y3ZMXWk6YdYzZ-ifPcW5o1MzbyTpS/s1600/IMG_20120719_202418.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj38UlpNLQYbZs6neNI_CIkpPA4Plu56AgBVXfICw35ImiazhHVPxhkz18Zi1a2nCygLKtAMZtw-iuFFLlMSBbEXSLqCGdye-bxZpb4I62xNl_L7V0y3ZMXWk6YdYzZ-ifPcW5o1MzbyTpS/s320/IMG_20120719_202418.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view - closeup</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">The photo to the left shows a closer view of the turning handle mounting.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Also note that the cutting tool is intentionally mounted off center; this enables the tool to cut closer to the mandrel. </span></span></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;">[Possible improvement #6: Instead of using a cylindrical tool post, use a tool post with a square or rectangular profile. This might provide more stability, and would also be easier to machine. Also, I plan to replace the carbide cutting tool with a HSS cutting tool - I think this may provide a smoother cut on brass.]<span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Drawings, Instructions, and Bill of Materials</span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">A complete set of drawings, instructions, and bill of materials for building this tool is available in PDF format at this link:</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWdWpoeGctSDJtTFE">ball-turning-tool-by-kaje.pdf</a></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">The drawings </span></span>were created using LibreOffice Draw. The editable drawing file is located at this link:<br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bykt5WZ092aWX0FyckpFaUNMU2M">ball-turning-tool-by-kaje.odg</a> </span></span></span><br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></h4>
<h4>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Acknowledgments</span></span></span></h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwnMRi-mzz8_HGdhfLUg05MKJpaJC4Cd5HDPM61hlou0IYuz9kg3pXpDG8g-Vz8NJtocVkNysAJuDH0Y64-SWjrS-wNi0EFQLMB5O3CfYar1MxaSNfAEPnz2AyR-yJS7IoEm9AuTJFzHu/s1600/IMG_20120724_110029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzwnMRi-mzz8_HGdhfLUg05MKJpaJC4Cd5HDPM61hlou0IYuz9kg3pXpDG8g-Vz8NJtocVkNysAJuDH0Y64-SWjrS-wNi0EFQLMB5O3CfYar1MxaSNfAEPnz2AyR-yJS7IoEm9AuTJFzHu/s320/IMG_20120724_110029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smokey checks the fine print.</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">Thanks to Smokey for his tireless checking of the paperwork.</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" style="border-width: 0;" /></a><br />
<span property="dct:title" xmlns:dct="http://purl.org/dc/terms/">Radius/Ball Turning Tool</span> by <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/" property="cc:attributionName" rel="cc:attributionURL" xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#">kaje</a> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-59475703379506428362012-07-17T18:01:00.001-07:002012-08-31T11:29:59.710-07:00Radius/Ball Turning Tool - No Mill Required<h2 style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
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<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
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Radius/Ball Turning Tool - No Mill Required</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s1600/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s200/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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This post discusses a tool for turning spheres (balls) and other curved surfaces on a lathe. A key feature of this tool is that it can be made without the use of a mill. </div>
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A short while ago I purchased a used mini-lathe (I'll be doing a post on that in the near future). As I am sure happens with most every other would-be home machinist, one of the first things I began doing with my new (used) lathe was to look for ways to improve it, and to add new capabilities. Among other things, I wanted to be able to turn spheres and other curved shapes.</div>
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There are of course tools that can be purchased for this purpose, as well as a number of very good plans available online for making your own tool. My inclination is to build it myself before buying whenever practical, but all of the online plans I could find required the use of a mill to build the tool. Unfortunately, I don't have a mill at present (though I plan to get one eventually). Consequently, I set about to design a radius turning tool that could be built using only a lathe and other tools I already had available, and that specifically did not require a mill for its construction. The result is the tool you see below:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s1600/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5EGMwODkUoRfcdBSRaopdJ7XrJ8RtetbAmNAxmfRMxjCCQkI8LpdFaz0Np1PWBY_m2mS0XCuioQEpKKaX09JykMAIvAvksNcpgxuMYxx4kJyU5GjWN7e0FesBddo9gmaIpH5ZgeV5ytzT/s640/IMG_20120714_155701.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I'll get into the details a bit later, but here are the basics of its construction:</div>
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<li>There are two steel plates:</li>
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<li>The bottom plate sits on the cross slide of the lathe (with the compound rest removed); it is locked in place with two cam-locks (see on the right side)</li>
<li>The top plate rotates and holds the cutting tool</li>
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<li>The cutting tool is held with a brass screw, which is used to adjust the radius of the turning</li>
<li>A handle mounted at 45 degrees on the top plate is used to rotate the tool while cutting (and yes - that ball on the end was made with this tool)</li>
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Here is a view of the tool from the bottom:</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhYtTXzrsHsNRNcrLYqkSPpEyoBHF9MxsN5ybzJtqQ9sxcC48yrP2yPNEmSsyjk__RVm7GFj2L9_eVax6Z8XzUGAbQjyUpRCgnOQWQg29rsevPAo12sV0M1DEsLK2aQOuY-i_HjBlDKth/s1600/IMG_20120714_155726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEhYtTXzrsHsNRNcrLYqkSPpEyoBHF9MxsN5ybzJtqQ9sxcC48yrP2yPNEmSsyjk__RVm7GFj2L9_eVax6Z8XzUGAbQjyUpRCgnOQWQg29rsevPAo12sV0M1DEsLK2aQOuY-i_HjBlDKth/s320/IMG_20120714_155726.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tool from the bottom.</td></tr>
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To the left you can see two fixed posts made of brass (to prevent marring the cross slide); on the right you can see the two cam-locks. The cam-locks are essentially two brass posts drilled off center; when rotated they wedge against the cross slide and lock the tool in place. Also visible is the circular cut-out in the bottom plate which allows the top plate to rotate.</div>
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Here are two views of the tool mounted on the lathe:</div>
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<tr><td><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7sXIHgdt43wZmejMXAqSIfB_92z1otWl1mtozGvrINaVZX9r4BHWAxYHaEIXVXsr7cftcoY2shPvwE-hy8XdW2Qz6LW9FT1fBiNnRCECLkI68N4Np1cgZWQI5CjN6_oAzIqX7kOrY0ERf/s320/IMG_20120713_220811.jpg" width="240" /> </td> <td><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoDw7YPaq0Sn9XTN1_T8fziY6QTm0XeDJfRUF4JGqCbYmkQEUR2vNMFpPTRqNjJcIDKqi05PRp-WEVjxSQvmZxMur4e6ox32aXpLy2Q0Rk567fdQqzaz-DJOXXiI0186BKk2NJ6-sUYnR/s320/IMG_20120713_220720.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tool mounted on cross slide.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjdsq787ozESDneNv6WutBE52-9NZP6CgQCkG1Q0E6X2myuu_V50lKqTdWTIwfWZmBCiJweJ969nrGlXeIpAyEC_O2kQnFtYEiBirYpkEV0ZbN4JmcNdfPdeXZcpIwBG9q2Us6AECWa6I/s1600/IMG_20120703_140907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjdsq787ozESDneNv6WutBE52-9NZP6CgQCkG1Q0E6X2myuu_V50lKqTdWTIwfWZmBCiJweJ969nrGlXeIpAyEC_O2kQnFtYEiBirYpkEV0ZbN4JmcNdfPdeXZcpIwBG9q2Us6AECWa6I/s320/IMG_20120703_140907.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First attempt - aluminum.</td></tr>
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The next photo shows a first attempt at turning a sphere in aluminum. This failed for several reasons.</div>
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First, the mandrel was made using a too small diameter - the mandrel was not stiff enough and this led to vibration during the cutting. Second, there were design deficiencies in the tool, which need to be corrected, and third, the tool was not properly positioned so the radius was not in proper alignment.</div>
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After several modifications, as well as better understanding how to best position and use the tool, I obtained the result below:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_n2-utiYbGbBamQvHKqutugbQFR5m9myHfvQ6R3yS6TS3wbdpjB7qDFgmKSbjElgZflrtLvqqx0oNe7ULWB5XVO7t1H7dUu50hRV2qKwbPyDsqBVO4jX2ecqp7YdyDU0HlBd_ah3XqUSr/s1600/IMG_20120714_152601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_n2-utiYbGbBamQvHKqutugbQFR5m9myHfvQ6R3yS6TS3wbdpjB7qDFgmKSbjElgZflrtLvqqx0oNe7ULWB5XVO7t1H7dUu50hRV2qKwbPyDsqBVO4jX2ecqp7YdyDU0HlBd_ah3XqUSr/s320/IMG_20120714_152601.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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At the left you can see a completed ball, turned in brass. The turning was completed with very light cuts (a few thousands or less), and the finish is quite good. The ball could probably used in this state for many purposes with no further work.</div>
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Note that a new mandrel was used - in this case made from a 1/2 inch steel rod. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1sDFV9YLzTVEeW41Vjcb52Xub28J-1l3bIOYn_sx1rCN6n1iKNAsBVZNF7krzjP6O2hYWb3V9x8s6fdb8Zk0ettLQzo5AUyGVZQZgSoBzG4qjPRJnaewv2Yy2yFfafhPLw6Lmza_JMqy/s1600/IMG_20120714_153227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP1sDFV9YLzTVEeW41Vjcb52Xub28J-1l3bIOYn_sx1rCN6n1iKNAsBVZNF7krzjP6O2hYWb3V9x8s6fdb8Zk0ettLQzo5AUyGVZQZgSoBzG4qjPRJnaewv2Yy2yFfafhPLw6Lmza_JMqy/s320/IMG_20120714_153227.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I wanted to see how good a finish I could get with a bit more work.</div>
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The result is shown in the photo to the right. The ball was polished with emery cloth and steel wool. In just a few minutes I was able to achieve a mirror finish.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvAX39jUKPCpQIn3HjjcTWaZovWFRDsdz4xgDrMvJv2LoYkGGjQivM_6wAqiDk5HKOeQm3HOPgdNGKnRcVeakOMPcLRnbZFLSj1rvydZzemXnnKoBni9MUeG5c4BqnEda9jGUPLS4Cf3zU/s1600/IMG_20120713_221348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvAX39jUKPCpQIn3HjjcTWaZovWFRDsdz4xgDrMvJv2LoYkGGjQivM_6wAqiDk5HKOeQm3HOPgdNGKnRcVeakOMPcLRnbZFLSj1rvydZzemXnnKoBni9MUeG5c4BqnEda9jGUPLS4Cf3zU/s320/IMG_20120713_221348.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To further test the capabilities of the tool, I tested it on a brass rod.</div>
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Here, the end of the brass rod has been turned to a hemisphere.</div>
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I continued with the same brass rod to turn a "ball end."</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYP18wLkXUa0mfZYx89liW5cvVOf4jejWDc0Ih9lTkhbBCktyIwis2Kp5taziYSLzLuW5DYxvY7DtYn5rik0dZgR1RcskK3kA9f-ueGSnzILfM1KzJllO1BWf5MHxwZduGB3Ouc8cXaCHP/s1600/IMG_20120713_222527.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYP18wLkXUa0mfZYx89liW5cvVOf4jejWDc0Ih9lTkhbBCktyIwis2Kp5taziYSLzLuW5DYxvY7DtYn5rik0dZgR1RcskK3kA9f-ueGSnzILfM1KzJllO1BWf5MHxwZduGB3Ouc8cXaCHP/s400/IMG_20120713_222527.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To the right we see the finished products - a ball end on a brass rod, and finished brass ball.</div>
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The final picture below shows the results of the first use of the tool.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMBSsTS1IcBT7KbVHZj6GUDSXXBYlX6aW5j9uKAN6BndnOdQBz-ErXMEKTBaIp1Axsm2RtjPs-xfGPp0Knzlmv4B5YbovY6_S0kjEv6lcdc_SQSe9i_ZhgbwCDRqQz7hDS27rJwCLEQZ6/s1600/IMG_20120714_160816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikMBSsTS1IcBT7KbVHZj6GUDSXXBYlX6aW5j9uKAN6BndnOdQBz-ErXMEKTBaIp1Axsm2RtjPs-xfGPp0Knzlmv4B5YbovY6_S0kjEv6lcdc_SQSe9i_ZhgbwCDRqQz7hDS27rJwCLEQZ6/s640/IMG_20120714_160816.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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From left to right:</div>
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<li>The very first attempt (in aluminum). The tool was off center, and there was a great deal of vibration and chatter during the cutting due (in part) to a too small diameter mandrel.</li>
<li>A second attempt - the cutting radius of the tool was not properly adjusted.</li>
<li>A bit better - still off center.</li>
<li>A bit better - cut too deep.</li>
<li>Badly off center. Also, at this point I found I need to adjust the cutting tool height slightly with a shim.</li>
<li>Success!</li>
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At this point, I feel that I have a good working radius turning tool, though I can see a number of things that might be done to improve it.</div>
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In a future post, I will publish detailed instructions for building the tool, as well as a link to measured drawings and other related information.</div>
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<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" style="border-width: 0;" /></a><br />
<span property="dct:title" xmlns:dct="http://purl.org/dc/terms/">Radius/Ball Turning Tool</span> by <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/" property="cc:attributionName" rel="cc:attributionURL" xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#">kaje</a> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4719610569015979860.post-73419660307985353852012-07-15T18:36:00.000-07:002012-08-31T11:30:29.029-07:00Machinist's Chest Restoration<h2>
</h2>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">I've moved to a new web site: </span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">Academy of Lagado</a> at <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home">https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/home</a></span><br />
<span style="background-color: yellow;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: yellow;">Blogger is nice, but I have found it too limiting for what I would like to do, so I have moved to Google Sites instead. <i><b>All</b></i> of the information found on this blog has been copied to the above web site, together with new information.</span><br />
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<h2>
Machinist's Chest Restoration</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPbSEZkNGxyZbq4yKUFiQV1r0hJC-0Z5pjV1dvBZi3wG8BKZeJzV7zpbTldTzdOyz2G7KwAXQXk037WgBWOuKo90-TGo8jaj6YshCLUgwLurpgUy759OiMIkacaAMky7pDjubgOSzZhuM/s1600/toolbox-before-after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="75" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPbSEZkNGxyZbq4yKUFiQV1r0hJC-0Z5pjV1dvBZi3wG8BKZeJzV7zpbTldTzdOyz2G7KwAXQXk037WgBWOuKo90-TGo8jaj6YshCLUgwLurpgUy759OiMIkacaAMky7pDjubgOSzZhuM/s200/toolbox-before-after.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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An old machinist chest is repaired and restored.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dhxBrL37j3U/T-ew6OaAZHI/AAAAAAAACJY/5WSSUkrs-ZM/s1600/toolbox-original-drawers.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dhxBrL37j3U/T-ew6OaAZHI/AAAAAAAACJY/5WSSUkrs-ZM/s320/toolbox-original-drawers.jpg" width="213" /></a>This
is an old machinist chest that belonged to my late father in law. It's
not a particularly valuable item (not like a Gerstner or such), but it
does have sentimental value.<br />
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<i><b>[Click on the pictures to see larger views.]</b></i><br />
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When I got it, the fake leather covering was peeling off, the brass fittings were tarnished black, and the box was held together with a random collection of nails and threaded rods. The mirror frame inside the lid was broken, the mirror was badly tarnished, and the key to the lock was missing.<br />
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I
removed all the brass fittings, stripped off the fake leather covering,
washed the wood with TSP to remove old hide glue (and some mold), and dismantled the box and re-glued it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpq5t7zAagVTpKDA-FBAhXmWIgFpI5XT92WkSdWpd-6ZXpJ3JuTy0_9NiSc9FVVlm4HYXEMK_f8qJTyC0YnY0HqxE2FfFnraANfV_ieTBIq1_HnltMzrT65D-StMQVFbcWGNDgaki-QgSm/s1600/toolbox-restored-front-back.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpq5t7zAagVTpKDA-FBAhXmWIgFpI5XT92WkSdWpd-6ZXpJ3JuTy0_9NiSc9FVVlm4HYXEMK_f8qJTyC0YnY0HqxE2FfFnraANfV_ieTBIq1_HnltMzrT65D-StMQVFbcWGNDgaki-QgSm/s320/toolbox-restored-front-back.jpg" width="213" /></a>
The brass fittings were cleaned with metal polish and steel wool, and
re-installed with new brass screws (the old screws were brass plated,
and had rusted. Some of the original screws were missing or had been
replaced with random mis-matched screws).<br />
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The front panel was re-framed with red oak,
and the entire box was stained with cherry urethane (four coats).
Although I gave the box a light sanding, I left many of the original
dents, nicks, and gouges as testimony to it's history.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bGEu_M_aVSI/T-iv-nuh1HI/AAAAAAAACLE/IDDzeHAYoHw/s1600/toolbox-restored-front-open.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bGEu_M_aVSI/T-iv-nuh1HI/AAAAAAAACLE/IDDzeHAYoHw/s320/toolbox-restored-front-open.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The mirror frame was repaired, new mirror glass was installed, and the box and drawers were lined with felt.<br />
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The
original drawer knobs were pretty cheap, and were missing some parts,
so I replaced them all with new hand made (lathe turned) solid brass
knobs.<br />
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I also made a new key for the front panel lock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPbSEZkNGxyZbq4yKUFiQV1r0hJC-0Z5pjV1dvBZi3wG8BKZeJzV7zpbTldTzdOyz2G7KwAXQXk037WgBWOuKo90-TGo8jaj6YshCLUgwLurpgUy759OiMIkacaAMky7pDjubgOSzZhuM/s1600/toolbox-before-after.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCPbSEZkNGxyZbq4yKUFiQV1r0hJC-0Z5pjV1dvBZi3wG8BKZeJzV7zpbTldTzdOyz2G7KwAXQXk037WgBWOuKo90-TGo8jaj6YshCLUgwLurpgUy759OiMIkacaAMky7pDjubgOSzZhuM/s640/toolbox-before-after.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Above,
you can see before and after pictures of the restored box. Note that in
the before pictures, some of the brass fitting and all of the old
drawer knobs had already been removed.<br />
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<a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license"><img alt="Creative Commons License" src="https://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-sa/3.0/88x31.png" style="border-width: 0;" /></a><br />
<span property="dct:title" xmlns:dct="http://purl.org/dc/terms/">Machinist's Chest Restoration</span> by <a href="http://academy-of-lagado.blogspot.com/" property="cc:attributionName" rel="cc:attributionURL" xmlns:cc="http://creativecommons.org/ns#">kaje</a> is licensed under a <a href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en_US" rel="license">Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License</a>.kagehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17445290354276721909noreply@blogger.com